83. My E36 316 service and brakes upgrade

Since I like to drive my 316i without worries, I did the regular oil service.
It's 13000 kilometers from the last one, so I thought it was time for some new oil, oil filter, spark plugs... I drove to my friends to do the job. The service was done in matter of minutes... I didn't even get a chance to finish my Red Bull. :o)



Right... A few days after that, my front brakes started producing some horrible tunes... :( I thought I would just replace the pads... but no. The pads were 110% worn, and the discs - well, they were even worse.

One thing always bothered me with the 316. The front discs were single-piece, not vented. Meaning, the brakes would quickly fade after just minutes of spirited driving.

Luckily, I had some 325 discs, calipers and pads lying around the garage, so I decided to go for a upgrade. The job is pretty straight-forward, since everything is plug and play. :)

Here's a picture of the 325 disc mounted on my 316:


If you like, I can make a picture of the old pads and discs... :o)
Just leave a comment. :)

Some stuff that you'll probably need for a oil/brake service:

P.S.
This is the filter that I use - Great stuff:
(make sure that you get the correct one for your engine)

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14. DIY - Service indicator reset

If you change your own oil, you may wonder, "How do I extinguish that annoying OIL SERVICE light?" It is a simple matter of sticking a piece of wire under your hood for 4 seconds. Well maybe it's not that simple, but that is the basic principle. No need to go to the dealer and pay them $75 for 4 seconds of work.

First, pop your hood and find the diagnostic data port. It is located on the side of the engine bay near the strut tower.



Unscrew the cap. You will see a big Pac-Man shaped hole and twenty little round holes. WTF is a Pac-Man? Never mind. We are only concerned with pin 7 and pin 19 (note: the words "pin" and "hole" are used interchangeably in this text). Refer to the picture below to find pins 7 and 19.


What we will be doing in this exercise is connecting pins 7 and 19 with a paperclip for four seconds. This will reset the oil service light. Simple, no?

Bend your paperclip it so it looks like this.



Well it doesn't have to look exactly like this, but you get the idea. Use pliers if you have to. We want those little loops at the end to maximize the contact with the conductors in the holes of the data port. If you can't make those little loops at the ends, that's okay. Just don't go running around with sharp objects.

Note: you probably will not be able to recover the original shape of the paperclip, so please don't use paperclips you can't afford to lose




Turn the ignition key to position II, but don't start the car. Get out of the car and go to the data port. Always connect pin 7 first. Once you've inserted one end into pin 7, insert the other end into pin 19 and hold it there for 4 seconds. Then remove the paperclip. Check the dash and the oil inspection lights should be reset. The reset occurs upon removal of the clip. DO NOT HOLD IT THERE FOR LONGER THAN 10 SECONDS or you may inadvertently reset your inspection I/II interval.
Pin Terminal Description

1. TD - TD Signal
2. Not occupied
3. Not occupied
4. Not occupied
5. Not occupied
6. Not occupied
7. SI - Service Interval Reset
8. Not occupied
9. Not occupied
10. Not occupied
11. Not occupied
12. 61 (D+) - Generator Charge Indicator
13. Not occupied
14. 30 Voltage - Hot at all times
15. RXD - Diagnostic Data Link
16. 15S Voltage - Ignition Switch in Run
17. Not occupied
18. PGSP - Programming Line
19. 31 - Ground
20. TXD - Diagnostic Data Link

This is a Copy/Paste from: Here!

Ah yes, If you want to do this in a safer way, check out this:
Some tools that can ease the process...


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